Freitag, 23. Mai 2014

Australia’s Red Center

After leaving Alice and its superb library behind we drove the remaining 450km to reach Yulara, with over 1,000 inhabitants the 4th biggest town in the NT. Of course, Yulara wouldn’t be that popular if it weren’t for its two famous sights, Uluru and Kata Tjuta.

We spent 3 days in that area, got up early for sunrise at both Uluru and Kata Tjuta, did a few walks, attended some cultural talks and we were also lucky to catch a fantastic sunset  – the world around us slowly got dark but the rock started to glimmer in vibrant orange – magnificent!! The whole area around Uluru is so beautiful and has such a special energy to it, it was really amazing. 
Sunrise
Wookie (3rd from left) watching the sunset with a few others
Sunset
Cultural Dance at Yulara
Walking at Kata Tjuta
Kata Tjuta
Kata Tjuta is pretty much the last place you can reach via normal, sealed road, from there a few hundred kilometres West you’d reach the WA border, a few hundred South and you’d land in South Australia. So, we had to drive back quite a bit to reach Kings Canyon which really surprised us as it was truly impressive. We climbed up to the canyon rim and did a 3hr walk around and absolutely loved it!

Kings Canyon I
Kings Canyon II
It's a long way down...
 
And there was more to see around Alice Springs; we spent 2 days hiking in the MacDonnell Ranges where we again were pretty surprised by how beautiful that part of the country is.   
West MacDonnell Ranges
 
Red Bank Gorge
Ormiston Gorge I
Ellery Creek Big Hole
Serpentine Gorge
Ormiston Gorge II
Simpson's Gap
Standley Chasm
We also got pretty close to nature again, camels next to the road, heard wild horses close to our van at night, had dingos at our campsite and of course the outback wouldn’t be the same without those little buggers:

Flies apparently love black
Flies be gone!
 
A few hundred kilometres North of Alice was another site we quickly stopped at, Devil’s Marbles; again a wonder of erosion:
Devil's Marbles
 
Yesterday night we stopped at the 'world-famous' Daly Waters Pub which apparently is the oldest pub in the NT and has also been named the best outback pub for several years. With live music, beer and delicious ‘tucker’ (=food) we had a really funny evening.

Daly Waters Outback Pub
Mataranka Hot Springs where we took a quick plunge on our way to Katherine - VERY nice!

We’re now in Katherine (Cadel Evan’s birthplace for all you cyclists out there) where we’re having a bit of an unplanned longer stop as Wookie’s oil needs changing. Btw, we’ve now driven 20,000km since we started in Perth at the end of January which is pretty amazing, a few thousand more and we’ll be done – ah we won’t think about that yet. We still have a few weeks of awesomeness ahead of us, including the Kimberleys, Broome and diving with the whale sharks in Exmouth (save the best for last, hey!)

We’re again expecting very patchy internet reception from here so there might not be another post before we’re back in Perth. How long we need to stay in Perth depends on our citizenship application and how quickly we get a date for the test. In case this takes longer and should we not be allowed to leave the country, we thought about heading over to the Christmas Islands; the diving there’s apparently amazing. But lets see :)


On the road again...



Mittwoch, 14. Mai 2014

From Reef to Rainforest

After our fantastic dive trip to Heron Island we drove up North to Cairns to start our 4-night liveaboard on the ‘Taka’.  As we had a few days time, we drove through Atherton Tablelands, a plateau close to Cairns, with lush rainforests, waterfalls and very pretty scenery.

Drive through Atherton Tablelands
Paronella Park built by a Spanish Immigrant in the 1950s

Waterfalls at Paronella Park

Milla Milla Falls

Giant Curtain Fig Tree
We boarded the ‘Taka’ Thursday at 4pm and after getting familiar with the boat, our cabins and the dive gear ‘set sail’ towards Ribbon Reef#5. Fortunate for us we were only 9 divers on the boat (usually about 20-15), so the trip was about to get pretty relaxed. And with a Thai chef to take care of us nothing could go wrong anyway :)
Waking up to this view - aaaah!
And it truly was one of the best things we’ve done so far! Wake up at 6:45am, breakfast at 7am, first dive of the day at 8am, and another 4 dives during the rest of the day, in between more eating and relaxing on the sundeck – what a live! While we slept the boat always drove a little bit further North taking us up to Ribbon Reef #10 (in case somebody wants to look it up); our dive sites included Steve’s Bommie, Two & Two Thirds, Christmas Tree Bommie, Andy’s Postcard, Clam Gardens, Lighthouse Bommie etc. One better than the other!!

Beautiful Corals
Nemo :)
White Tipped Reef Shark
Lionfish
Stefan with a Seasnake (and another one creeping up on him in the background)
It was AMAZING!!
Descent - Stefan top left, Marlene fixing her mask just underneath :)
We also visited one of Australia’s most famous dive sites, the so called Cod Hole, known for a group of huge Potato Cods (German: Riesenzackenbarsch) who love to mingle with the divers. Amazing experience!

 
 

Every evening after dinner we also had a night dive where Taka is offering something really special, called Fluoro Diving. This means you won’t use a normal torch but a bluelight torch and an orange filter over your dive mask with which you can see everything that’s fluorescent. This just opens up a whole new world! Lots of corals are fluorescent but also some fish and crabs are and it’s just amazing how the underwater world looks that way.

Scorpion Fish while Fluoro Diving
Dolphins close to our boat

All in all we did 15 dives, and also completed a Nitrox course which means we can now use Enriched Air (contains more oxygen than a normal tank fill) while diving allowing us more bottom time at deeper dives.
After being back on land we made our way to Port Douglas, the Daintree Rainforest National Park and Cape Tribulation. Here the rainforest really meets the reef, it’s like you’d imagine paradise. Unfortunately no swimming due to stingers and crocodile, so maybe not quite paradise :)

Rainforst Cableway to Kuranda
Boulder Gorge

Daintree Rainforest

Paradise!

On our way down to Townsville, we did our last dive in Queensland, the wreck of the SS Yongala, a steamboat which sunk in a cyclone in 1911. It wasn’t found until about 40 years later and ever since has become a top dive spot as it’s completely covered by corals and anemones and home to a vast array of marine life. Being pretty spoilt with calm water and visibility of 30m+ on the liveaboard, my (Marlene) first impression of the wreck was actually a bit disappointing as the visibility was really bad, maybe 7meters. But once you get used to it and concentrate on the wreck itself it’s actually pretty amazing what you can see down there. And only after a few minutes we were rewarded with huge marble rays swimming next to us, eagle rays, sting rays, turtles, lots and lots of fish and also a bullshark! 

We now left Queensland behind and made our way across the Overlander Track to Alice Springs (about 2500km). We finally got the OK from Austria for our double citizenship and have spent the first afternoon in Alice Springs’ library to sort out our Australian application. Fingers crossed everything will go well!