Dienstag, 26. August 2014

USA II - More Nationalparks, Bears and an Earthquake

After an amazing first 3 weeks full of grand cities and fantastic national parks it was time for a little 'city break' again: Salt Lake City - Mormone Headquaters :)


The town is quite nice, not too big and very clean but also not lots to see there. We were more interested in closeby Park City, home of the Olympic Games 2002. We did a little tour of the facilities, our tour guide the #5 ranked US skeleton athlete. After telling us that his best friends are the Austrian skeleton athletes we pretty much became his best friends as well; he loved us so much, he invited us to a drive down the original bob sled track (normally $75 per person). Whoohoo, what a ride!! 100kmh and about 4G in the corners! We managed the course in about 1 minute, not sure what the winning time of the Olympics was back then, I reckon pretty close ;). How cool are the summer training facilities for the freestyle guys, what do you reckon? We saw some huge jumps and a few of our friends would love that climbing tower, wouldn't you?


Leaving the Mormones we made our way up North towards Wyoming where more National Parks, more hiking and wildlife encounter was about to happen. 


Grand Teton was the first 'hiking'-park for us. This was also the first visitor centre that promised or they rather 'threatened' us that we would encounter bears on our hikes. Not only are there Black Bears but the Grizzly Bears are the ones to be worried about if you run into one. We kept our eyes open a little more than usual. At Grand Teton National Park we started with a fairly short walk to Signal Mountain and in the morning we did Cascade Canyon which added up to our first 20km in a hike with a beautiful scenery. 


We didn't miss to have a beer in the infamous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar in Jackson and then made it on to Yellowstone National Park which was definitely one of the trip highlights.

The 'Old Faithful' Geyser errupts about every 50 minutes and therefore, although it is a fairly small geyser, attracts thousands of people every time as you can see.

Amazing!! Geysers, hot springs, mud holes, steam vents, .. all on top of a 'super volcano'; most of the park lies within the caldera of a volcano which last errupted about 640,000 years ago. This park is really humbling and makes you realise how powerless we actually are in comparison to the forces of nature. You could really spend weeks at Yellowstone, there's so much going on, behind every corner a different landscape, a different smell (mostly not very nice smells though). 

Riverside Geyser erupting

One of the many awesome pools. Mostly boiling hot and not "swimable'. One is called Belgian pool named after a lady who fell into it at the beginning of the last century and died of the burns, horrible story actually :-(

We didn't see any bears in Yellowstone either but hundreds of bison (some very, very close), moose and elk. It was a comparable experience to South Africa with everyone being completely happy with any wildlife sighting and some animals just mingling into the park traffic, awesome.



In Cody, the self-proclaimed Rodeo capital of the world, a little outside of the park, we also attended our first Rodeo - yeeha! Pretty funny to watch AND after being on a horse ourselves just a few weeks earlier, we appreciated the guys' (and girls') efforts a lot more.

We then made our way through the Glacier Nationalpark in Montana (which visitor centre actually guaranteed us a bear sighting but of course we didn't see any). The hike to Grinnel Glacier in the early morning turned out to be wonderful and exciting. Aware of the 'bear-danger' we were advised by the Park Rangers to talk loudly and sing to 'scare' bears aware from us, it worked ;-(. As we were the second group to hike the 19km we at least saw some Big Horn sheep and crossing a waterfall was also exciting. The 'Going-to-the-Sun' Road through the park was a very picturesque drive.

We went all the way up to the glacier you can see on the right top of the picture.

From there we made our way to Seattle where we visted the Boeing factory, rode up the Space Needle, spent ages at the EMP museum (awesome!) and had clam chowder at the Pike Street Markets. We really enjoyed Seattle, very cool, relaxed and livable city.


On Stefan's birthday we did another short walk in Mt Rainier Nationalpark and believe it or not we actually saw a bear eating berries on a closeby meadow - all in safe distance :) We then spent the night in a forest spa retreat with an outdoor hot tub and far away from the civilisation, great.


Via Mt St Helens and Portland (and its many, many breweries - awesome city!) we then slowly made our way down the coastal highway back towards our starting point. We spent a whole day wandering beneath the Redwood trees, the tallest trees on earth and even drove through one by car which was up to 2500 years old and about 100m high, truly unbelievable.



We also still had time to do a wine tour in the Napa Valley. After having tasted our way through pretty much all the Australian wine regions, Napa was really different for us. You actually have to pay for your tastings, from $20 to $55 for 4-5 tastings of wine. So it actually comes cheaper to just walk in and buy a glass (with $10-15 also not on the cheap side). All in all, very beautiful and posh wineries, the wine itself, well... I don't know. I prefer my Barossa Shiraz, lets put it that way :) The tour in a limousine bus was another nice 'Ausklang' to our travels through the US of A.

And then, when we thought there weren't many more highlights to come, we woke up at 3:20am to a 6.1 earthquake, with the epicentre only a few kilometers from where we stayed! Holy moly, we never experienced anything like this, it was scary and cool at the same time! 

Still a bit shaken (pun intended) from the nightly excitement we spent our last day in the US in Yosemite Nationalpark, which initially wasn't on our to do list but ended up as a nice last hike - no bears here, just lots and lots of tourists, mainly French and Germans...


So, this was it, almost 10 weeks (incl Hawaii) that really have gone by so fast. 12 states, 14,000km, lowest point of -86m and highest temperature of 52C both in Death Valley, highest point of 3055m on Haleakala, Hawaii. 

It was truly amazing, we loved every single minute of our time here. So many amazing landscapes, we're still discussing what our favourite was - Monument Valley, Bryce Canyon, Yellowstone, Hawaii - they were all just so different but equally beautiful.

There were quite a few things that really surprised us,p and others that were exactly how you imagine them to be. As for the surprises, we always thought all the ridiculous rules and laws in Australia are originating from the US but we found that the US are much more open and 'lenient'. They drive like maniacs (speed limits are not really limits here, rather recommendations...) and even alcohol laws are much more reasonable than how far Australia has gone by now. And as for health and safety regulations, well I'm pretty sure some of the hikes we did wouldn't even be open to the public in Australia.

But then there are some things that are exactly like you imagine them to be, fast food chains on every corner, trying to eat healthy almost impossible, everything is super-size here (we quickly learned to always order the smallest size and still always had more than enough), and there really are many obese people - no surprise really. But they know how to cook a good steak (medium rare really is medium rare here, other than in Australia...     ).  Cars are big, fuel is cheap. AND nobody knows where Austria is or of course thinks it's the same as Australia. Lucky for us we can work with both, hehe :)

Mittwoch, 6. August 2014

USA - The first three weeks

After almost 4 fantastic weeks on Hawaii it was time for mainland USA and yet another road trip - whoohoo!! We started in San Francisco where we also met Alex, Stefan's brother. We really enjoyed San Francisco, it all felt really neighbourly and quite 'compact', from Fisherman's Warf (where we had a fantastic seafood chowder) to Ashbury Haight, the neighbourhood of Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin and Co, everything was so pretty and neat. Our hotel was very close to the so-called 'Painted Ladies' known from Full House and Mrs Doubtfire, and the whole area was full of really cool houses. Very cool! Here's some photos of the highlights:







We then made our way down South to LA we stopped to see Elephant seals which were really interesting, so different to all the seals we have seen before. Not the most beautiful creatures in the world but amazing.


Then we reached Malibu Beach (I'll be ready *sing*) and Venice, strolled down the Walk of Fame, drove through the Hollywood Hills and Beverly Hills and visited the Warner Brothers and Universal Studios. Stefan and Alex also spent a day at Six Flags riding the most ridiculous rollercoasters in the world while I went shopping (not on Rodeo Drive though ;) and took a drive through the city (14 lane freeways - holy moly!!) and Mulholland Drive. Although we heard quite a few bad things about LA we actually really liked it. Not as much as San Francisco though, but then you can't really compare the two. 


Next stop on our road trip was San Diego where we spent a day exploring the city, waterfront and historic, mexican parts of the town. All in all a very cool and relaxed city and we now certainly know where the hype about San Diego comes from. 

We then drove on towards Las Vegas stopping at the very, very toasty Death Valley. Although we knew that Death Valley was one of the hottest places on earth, the over 50(!) degrees Celsius still really hit us. I thought Perth summer was hot but it's really nothing compared to Death Valley - crazy!! The wind is so hot, it hurts your eyes; at times I thought my sneakers were melting away beneath me. So, needless to say we didn't do much walking there :)


Then it was time for fabulous Las Vegas! We checked in to Excalibur (the hotel that looks like..

..yes, the Disneyland castle, hehe!) and spent 2 full days and 3 nights gambling, eating, drinking (All you can drink Bloody Marys for $12 at the Bellagio breakfast buffet - oooh yeah!) and shopping our way through town. Las Vegas is absolutely crazy; although you hear so much about 'Sin City' everything's even crazier than you imagine it to be. The amount of shops, bars, clubs, restaurants, casinos and people - just thinking about how much money they all leave here, incredible!! We didn't really get lucky gambling but it was so much fun, we thought Vegas was awesome!

Leaving Vegas behind we made our way to Hoover Dam, Lake Meade and the Valley of Fire and then on to Arizona to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Wow!! What else shall we say, absolutely incredible. The North Rim is also less crowded so we got some nice photos there. 


On our way to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon we got another unexpected treat. Along the way we saw a sign advertising dinosaur foot prints so we pulled over and took a tour by a local Najavo American Indian guide (it was donation based as he was only about 10 years old, so cute). On our travels we have seen some Dinosaur sites but never have we seen such good ones including prints of Tyrannosaurus Rex, amazing (the prints were clearly visible but got "highlighted" by a few stones).


The South Rim is as spectacular as the North but full of people. You sometimes really have to fight for a spot to take a good photo. That's also a reason why we decided to take a flight over the canyon, again wow wow wow!!!!


We then had to leave Alex in Flagstaff a little bit South of the Grand Canyon from where he was flying back to Austria. Stefan and I drove on to Antelope Canyon stopping at the 'Horseshoe Bend' where the Colorado River is taking a spectacular looking 'loop'. So beautiful! From here one highlight really followed the next. Antelope Canyon, Monument Valley (including a 2hour horse back ride), Mesa Verde, Canyonlands, Arches National Park, Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park. One park more beautiful and spectacular than the other. It was just amazing, we LOVED it! There's only two things which were a bit of a shame 1) our camera lense breaking in between and 2) the road closure to Delicate Arch (the most famous arch in the park). But hey, that's travelling, such things happen :) Phone take photos too and with Delicate Arch we now have another reason to come back at some stage.

   Horseshoe Bend

   Antelope Canyon

   Horseback Riding in Monument Valley

   Monument Valley

   Mesa Verde

   Canyonlands

   Canyonlands

   Landscape Arch in Arches National Park

   Balanced Rock in Arches National Park



   Double Arch

   Bryce Canyon